Photo: Canva
The Times in the UK performed an investigation that sought to uncover the truth about what really happens to clothing waste that is donated to specific take-back bins set up by popular fashion brands such as H&M, Nike, and C&A.
They were not happy with what they uncovered.
According to the article, a donated clothing item that is intended “for recycling is being shipped across the world, where items that cannot be sold are at risk of being burnt and sent to open dumps.”
George Harding-Rolls posted additional details on LinkedIn about this investigation, which was completed in cooperation with Changing Markets Foundation.
By attaching tracking devices to various garments, they “tracked 21 items from 10 fashion brands through their take-back schemes. Garments were donated to H&M, Zara, C&A, Primark, Nike, The North Face, Uniqlo and M&S stores in Belgium, France, Germany and the UK, or posted them to a Boohoo scheme. Despite the slogans, three-quarters of items (16 out of 21 or 76%) were either destroyed, left in warehouses or exported to Africa, where up to half of used clothing are quickly shredded for other uses or dumped.”
More specifically, they found that:
- Seven garments in total were destroyed or downcycled, four of which were shredded to make stuffing or rags.
- One good-condition item dropped off at C&A was burned for fuel at a cement plant (despite their bin claiming to “give clothes a second life”).
- An item dropped off at Primark ended up in a landfill, while Primark’s bin specifically states it prevents any clothes from ending up in landfills.
- Four items given to H&M and C&A ended up in Africa in areas with waste problems and high pollution.
- Five items in total were reused in Europe or made it to a resale shop.
- Only one item was resold in the same country where it was dropped off.
Another interesting statistic that the video in the LinkedIn post points out is how “countries in the Global South are overwhelmed with used clothing imports, 20-50% of which is of such bad quality that it immediately becomes waste.”
Ultimately, the investigation claims it “shows that not only are these take-back schemes sending clothes in good condition to be shredded and burned, but they are also contributing to the burden of fast fashion waste dumped in African countries.”
With this inconsistent practice being exposed, consumers are once again put in a precarious position where they cannot necessarily trust the integrity of given sustainability solutions. This should not deter consumers from recycling their clothes, it just means that, as always, one cannot blindly take promises at face value.
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